Roma, caput gusti
- Words by Raffaella Prandi
- Photos by Paolo della Corte/Foodrepublic
Technically, they are brilliant. Extremely motivated and passionate, having spent their formative years abroad or even hailing from other countries, their curriculum vitae are worth a close examination. The gourmet scene of Rome is atypical, transversal, crossing restaurants and trattoria with a generation of chefs from Anthony Genovese to Cristina Bowerman, from Leonardo Vignali to Roy Caceres and Alba Esteve Ruiz. Their food, and its various degrees of experimentation, has finally been recognised as a legitimate part of the city’s daily routine.
The internet, reality shows, MasterChef and a range of publications, not to mention the opening of the permanent food expo-market Eataly, have exposed the Roman public to the world of gourmet food. Today, even the most stubborn and obstinate defender of tradition knows that there is a vibrant food movement that is all about creativity and gastronomy. Food where every dish can be a surprise, designed to seduce the mind and the palate, made to rock the boat and shake things up. The “right cooks at the right time” are a kind of learning process that try to sweep away old habits or reinvigorate them by imbuing them with new meaning. Leonardo Vignali for example, has completely reinterpreted traditional dishes with a new intensity and cleanliness of flavour while not deviating one millimetre from the most orthodox traditions at his trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto…