Anatomy of a mixed deep-fry
- Words by Guido Barosio
- Photos by Bob Noto
When I first met Davide Scabin twelve years ago, I dubbed him the “Almese Martian” for his approach to cooking that was both alien and cybernetic. He was working in the mountains of Alm- ese at the time, a short distance from Musiné (where UFOs really do land). He was a kind of alchemist that stood between traditional Piedmontese cooking and the Starship Enterprise of new flavours, or ‘creative’ cooking as it was known at the time.
Today, Davide, twice Michelin-starred and one of the World’s 50 best chefs, has not yet lost his taste for games or for risk taking, teasing, rituals and provocation. They are all ingredients that are ideally combined in a single
event, such as this mixed deep-fry. The beginning is classic, or from the point of view of the Piedmontese, an- cestral. It brings to mind a fritto misto, a mixed deep-fry, a traditional and en- chanting kind of cooking that is centu- ries old. It was prepared in times gone by with strutto (pork fat) and was origi- nally a way of using the poorest cuts that could not be conserved after the pig was butchered.
Scabin is like a crooner of American ballads, a star who has experimented with all styles and who has finally re- corded an album for himself and oth- ers.