- Words by Andrea Petrini
- Photos by Benjamin Schmuck
At times it’s impossible to know if Bertrand is smiling or if a cloud of misgiving is passing over his eyes. These are times of reactionary thought, culminating in the piazza behind banners of “NO to Marriage for All”, foreshadowing public penance over an openness towards others.
Bertrand found the first sign of alarm one morning when he arrived at work. “I parked the scooter in front of the restaurant. I was half asleep, it was eight in the morning, when I saw what someone had written in the middle of the night on the ground in front of the entrance. There was an outline of a horse and the sentence: Shame on you for eating horses!”
Will there come a day when cooks entering the kitchen have to be escorted by police officers for protection against the Right to Life Leagues for Sea Urchins or the Pro-Snail Coalition, legacies of the tumult of modern life? When food fundamentalists are like the hyper Catholic protesters who prayed in front of cinemas showing Scorsese’s “The Last Temptation of Christ”.
Watch out from behind those stoves for the boycotting hoo- ligans of Romeo Castellucci’s controversial show Sul con- cetto di volto nel figlio di Dio! [A theatrical show thought to be offensive to Jesus, and contested by many Catholics]. Be on your guard in the kitchen, as at the theatre, for the voices of those who invoke the seven plagues on sinners. Those who wish the eternal flames of Hell for the gastro- hipsters of decadent multiculturalism, whom they consider worse than the inhabitants of Sodom and Gomorra; like those who love the Tataki of horse heart with herbs and vegetables that Grébaut serves every now and then under the table – a bit like the Eucharist – and those who are after something even more hardcore…